7 ODD THINGS JAPANANESE & SOME TRAVEL ESCAPADES

We were in Japan for two weeks in April/May this year (2018 ) and it was one of the best trips we’ve ever undertaken. We did observe some things that were different, perhaps even ‘odd’ and had a few unexpected adventures, recounted below. All pictures © Pep Mac Ruairi

Gaming Halls are huge!

Inari looks after artists and writers

Odd things Japanese # 1: Japanese irony. As a reward for being good people, who showed themselves willing to use their towels for another day and thus 'save the planet', we received two complementary PLASTIC bottles of water!

Trip to Hakone

Hakone lake

On our last morning in Tokyo, we decided to get up early, so we could leisurely make our way to the station, have breakfast there and get onto our train to Hakone stress-free. Well ... we were almost at Shinjuku, when we realised we had left a large sum of cash in our hotel safe. Post haste we turned back, I ran to the hotel (amazed how well that was going), where the receptionist jumped into action and I was back at the metro station within 6 minutes. The metro came almost at once, so we got to Shinjuku half an hour before our train was to depart. Relax... Except, when we got to the ticket gate, the inspector told us that these were not tickets, but vouchers that needed to be exchanged at such and such a place. Shinjuku, of course, is not a station really, but an anthill, with 3.6 million passengers milling about each day. However, thanks to Cormac's keen eyesight, we found the office. Hurray! Oh, there's a queue.... Going excruciatingly slowly.... Thankfully, a nice lady observed our anguished visages and helped out quickly. We ran back to the platform, where we arrived with almost 5 minutes to spare. No sweat. Oh, and then we went to Hakone, saw Mt Fuji, had the best ever sashimi and ended up in a private onsen. We walked back to our hostel in the streaming rain. Now we are tucked up in our little bunk bed, anticipating what tomorrow will bring. Banzaiiii!

Mt Fuji soda

Mt Fuji for real!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hostess Kana of Hostel 1914

Odd things Japanese # 2: no bins, no litter. Ever since the sarin gas attack on the Tokyo subway in 1995, there are very few rubbish bins in public spaces. Because of this, one might expect a lot of litter, but not so. Streets and metro stations are pristine, as everybody has the common decency to take their stuff home. If only other countries would follow this excellent example. Just goes to show that it is possible!

Odd things Japanese # 3: all that jazz. Whether you are entering a hotel lobby, a restaurant or a shopping mall, you are most likely to be treated to soft jazz music. There are really only two other options, when it comes to music in public spaces, the first one being French (either - jazzy - chansons or Parisian Accordion music) or 1980s/90s Britpop (but only if your establishment is seriously cool OR down at heel). Japanese music simply doesn't feature in public life. Today, we had an even odder musical experience: as part of their next-station announcement, the Kintetsu railways use computerised western children songs, like the Dutch 'zie ginds komt de stoomboot' and 'old mcdonalds had a farm'. Very curious indeed!

Maiko Make-over in Gion District

Maiko Peppi-San

Up early this morning to get my Maiko 'experience' in the Gion district, a half-hour walk, according to Google maps. So, it was a good thing we had left an hour before the appointment, because that's how long it took us to find the place, what with indecipherable signage everywhere. The studio was nice and cool, unlike the hot and muggy weather outside. Then the transformation process began. First the painting, with big flat brushes, followed by the wig, which weighed about a kilo. My own hair was integrated into it, using lots of wax and hair dye. The kimono fitting was an experience in itself: layer after layer - and lots of stuffing and bits of card board to hide any signs of breasts or a waistline - all held together but very tightly pulled strings. Cormac was allowed to come in for the photo shoot (pics to follow), after which I was handed the world's most uncomfortable slippers/clogs and given 20 minutes to roam outside. There were many ladies wandering around in kimonos, and quite a few wanted to have their picture taken with me (since I was dressed up like the real thing) and Cormac was a sweet and obliging photographer. When the time was up, I went back inside, where the dismantling took almost as long as the makeover. It truly was an experience; intriguing and fun to be joining in a tradition for a short while.

A Day in Kyoto

School girls at Bamboo Forest

On our last day in Kyoto, we had three amazing outings. The first one was to the famous Arashiyama bamboo forest. Of course, hundreds of people had thought of the same thing, including my colleague Robert, whom we met just as we were leaving (!), yet the place remained peaceful and the air was fresh. Sparky met a new friend too, a fellow traveller of sorts.

Gion Tempel

Our second adventure of the day led us to the east part of the city, which is flanked by impressive hills, beautifully sculpted parks and countless holy places. A wonderful walk, which landed us back in the Gion district, which was much quieter today, now that Golden Week is over. It's lovely seeing all the young ladies, and some young men too, walking around in their rented kimonos. Without the maddening crowds, it was easier to feel the magic of this place.

Our final endeavour in Kyoto was to go to this crazy bar I had read about, but we couldn't find it and also wanted to eat something first. After looking around in the rain, we settled for a nice French brasserie, where the staff spoke French and the food and wine were excellent. We got talking to the people who were sitting next to us at the bar and it turned out this Frenchman Chris was the owner of L'Escamoteur and his friend Yoshimi an artist who studied in New York. Chris actually performed some magic tricks and we all ended up talking about art, magic, fortune telling and UFOs. After saying goodbye, we found the Escamoteur was full (they only take 16 people at a time), but it didn't really matter, because our evening couldn't really be improved upon anyway. Now we are packing our suitcases as we leave for Osaka tomorrow. Sayonara, Kyoto, you've been good to us!

Meeting the locals

Odd things Japanese #4: food and photography. Japanese cuisine is renowned for its delicate flavours. Aesthetics play a big role in Japanese culture. Presentation and plating are important elements of the dining experience. So, why is it that the pictures outside restaurants, which are supposed to lure you in, always make the food look nigh on inedible? 

Leaving Japan

The reason for staying in Osaka was mainly so travel to the airport early in the morning would be a bit easier. What I had not reckoned with is the fact that there is only a 'rapid' train from Osaka station that stops everywhere and takes 70 minutes to traverse the 40 kilometres to Kanzai airport. Should have done my research better! Still, interesting to experience a real Japanese morning rush hour (lots of running and loud announcements) and school boys in uniform, eating Nutella croissants while doing their English homework on the train.

Odd things Japanese # 5: bird song. You don't see a lot of birds around in Japanese cities, except crows. The (slightly mechanical) sound of birds, however, can be heard intermittently at stations and airports, ranging from cheerful chirping to cuckoo calls. I am not sure what the meaning or purpose is of this bird song.

 
Odd things Japanese #6: Hotel Pyjamas. In most countries I’ve travelled to, the hotels offer towels and toiletries, but in Japan they add an extra touch: they provide all their guests with pyjamas. They’re generally very soft, loose-fitting and comfortable. There is often a big stack of toothbrushes in the bathroom as well, so really, you don’t need to bring anything! 

Odd things Japanese #7: The Art of Shopping. While in the West, department stores and shops of all kinds are in decline, this is not the case in Japan, on the contrary, I’d say. At places like Yodobashi and Bic Camera (that’s right: ‘Bic’, not ‘Big!) you can buy pretty much anything you want or need, ranging from shoelaces (which we bought) to pianos (which we didn’t buy). The whole online-purchasing fad just hasn’t caught on here: people pay mostly in cash and you can still rent DVDs and even CDs.

Shibuya